The Maharaja of the Moors

The Maharaja of the Moors

A author explores the hallowed heartland of Eire’s Connemara on the former fort of a legendary maharaja, whose erstwhile dwelling lives on as a lodge.


The Maharaja of Nawanagar first got here to Eire on a fishing vacation in 1923 and fell in love with Ballynahinch Fortress. By 1924, he’d purchased the property, together with its in depth fisheries. Photograph Courtesy: Ballynahinch Fortress Resort

Ballynahinch Fortress Resort, one-time summer time dwelling to His Highness Shri Sir Ranjitsinhji Vibhaji, Maharaja Jam Saheb of Nawanagar, overlooks an attention-grabbing river and combined woodlands to its south. On its north aspect, the home instructions a view of the quartzite, pyramidal peak of Benlettery. The Maharaja of Connemara, or Ranji, as he’s affectionately recognized within the space, is essentially the most talked-about of the property’s former proprietors. 

That’s to not say there was something non-descript about its earlier occupants. There have been the Berridges who made their cash brewing beer; the Martins, who constructed the home in 1756—the final of whom to reside at Ballynahinch was generally known as ‘Humanity Dick,’ for establishing the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. Earlier than all of those got here the ‘Ferocious O’Flahertys,’ Connemara’s mightiest clan, who managed the area for tons of of years. Its chieftainship fell into the lap of Grace O’Malley, the Pirate Queen, when she married in. The O’Flaherty fort, a Fifteenth-century break, sits on an islet in Ballynahinch Lake, a couple of minutes stroll from the place the crenelated mansion now stands.


Recollections of a Maharaja

Ranji got here to Eire on a fishing vacation in 1923 and fell headlong in love with Ballynahinch. By 1924, he’d purchased the fort and property, together with its in depth fisheries, from the Berridges. Some say that when the Galway-Clifden practice pulled into the native station, Ranji’s wrist would begin twitching in preparation for the fishing. He had hoped, I’m informed, of retiring to Ballynahinch, or ‘essentially the most stunning place of all,’ as he described it. 

On one among his return journeys to Nawanagar, he carried a china tea set embossed with Connemara’s mountains and rivers. Every time he felt lonesome for his West of Eire hideaway, he’d drink tea from it. That was within the mid-Nineteen Twenties and early-30s. These days, Ranji thrives on the tongues of locals. The fort has turn out to be a lodge, and its tributes to him, the Fisherman’s Pub and Ranji Room, show pictures of the maharaja aplenty. In a single, he’s draped in royal finery. In one other, he’s wearing tweed and plus-fours. The bookshelves stick with it the Ranji theme. The Jubilee Ebook of Cricket, written by the ‘Prince of Crickateers’ himself, was a broadly learn ‘how-to’ guide in its day: recommendation on healthful residing consists of, “The atypical pleasures of life, partaken of reasonably, is not going to intrude with cricket.”


After a day spent exploring the huge property, a restful whiskey within the Hunts Room warms the spirit. Photograph courtesy: Ballynahinch Fortress Resort


Lapping up Lore

One afternoon in the beginning of September, after checking-in on the lodge, I take myself on a stroll round Ballynahinch’s grounds. My first cease is the walled backyard. That is the pinnacle gardener’s pet venture and is equal elements class and practicality. There’s the roof-trained pergola and radiating pathways that draw footfall and heat stone partitions, newly restored with the assistance of native stonemasons, that increase the bottom warmth to an optimum temperature for rising apple and pear timber, strawberries, figs, mulberries amongst different berries, and a fantastic number of greens. Mushroom compost, seaweed, and inexperienced manure full the job of turning the backyard right into a larder for the lodge. 

Close by the greenhouse, I overhear a gardener chatting to company about Ranji. “Yearly, earlier than he left, he’d give away his vehicles,” he tells them. “And vehicles had been onerous to return by round right here, then,” he provides. The gardener goes on to say that he’s taken up sufficient of their time. I get the impression that I’ve missed out on an extended Ranji story. Folks reminiscence, as I found within the backyard, is simple to search out in Connemara. A short time later, within the fort’s library room, I meet Des Lally, a historian and former workers member at Ballynahinch. A log hearth crackles within the fire as Des begins to inform me about when he started working at Ballynahinch, starting in 1983. Again then, individuals who had labored for the maharaja had been nonetheless employed by the lodge. “Frank Cummins drove Ranji’s automotive and was his ghillie (attendant) right here,’ says Des, recalling that ‘his eyes used to gentle up when he spoke about him, and he’d nonetheless seek advice from him as his highness.” 

In direction of the top of Frank’s life, Des remembers visiting him and listening to him recount, wistfully, how he’d misplaced “the ruby cuff-links that the highness gave me.” His highness’s generosity was prolonged to individuals from all rungs of society. When the previous Taoiseach (Prime Minister of the Republic of Eire) Garret Fitzgerald visited the fort within the Nineteen Eighties, Des remembers their dialog concerning the bale of golden silk that Ranji gifted to the chief’s father. “I don’t know what occurred to it, however I’d love if I had it to make a sari for Joan (the then Taoiseach’s spouse),” Fitzgerald informed Des. The roughly 100 employees on his payroll had been, too, on the receiving finish of his goodwill: employment was a lot wanted in a area hollowed out by a conflict of independence, a subsequent civil conflict, and emigration; altruism, probably, not enterprise sense, motivated Ranji’s hiring coverage. When he threw events for the employees, Martin O’Halloran, one other former ghillie, would say that “there was sufficient drink to sink the Titanic.”


The interiors of Ballynahinch Fortress mesmerise, be it the sweeping staircase (prime proper) or the charming suites (backside proper) framing vistas that pose outdoors the window panes and glossy heritage accents (left). Photograph courtesy: Ballynahinch Fortress Resort


A Beloved Legend

Within the Owenmore Restaurant, just a little later, wine-drinkers consign these Guinness guzzlers to historical past. My very own glass of Picpoul goes down properly with complimentary appetisers—squid tartlet and apple and ricotta roulade—scallop starter, and entrée of black sole on the bone in an orange and cardamom beurre blanc. To my proper, a younger American girl is pulling up her male companion, from Dublin, for presuming to know her wine alternative. She’d needed to override an order he positioned for a glass of Chablis with a purple Bordeaux. If I look from this privileged indoor setting to the out of doors one, the river view seems to be nearly too good to be true, very like the one from my bed room. The pinnacle gardener put it properly when he in contrast its exquisiteness to a river designed by Functionality Brown, the 18th century panorama architect who, pushed to good nature’s design, engineered English estates to seem ‘blessed’ with cascading rivers, deep lakes, and wooded demesne.

This river may be very actual, although, and so is its id as one among Europe’s most interesting salmon and trout fisheries. Fish shares, although, aren’t what they had been in Ranji’s time. The menu echoes this. Printed under the checklist of important programs, it states, “As a part of our salmon conservation programme we solely serve wild salmon when out there and caught sustainably.” From Des, I’d discovered that Ranji was content material to eat no matter his Irish prepare dinner made for him—there have been ‘a great deal of fish,’ and sport was hunted on the property. He had, once in a while, nevertheless, the prospect to eat meals from dwelling. “His nieces would head into the kitchen to do one thing particular, one thing from dwelling,” Tim Heanue, Customer Expertise Supervisor at Kylemore Abbey, tells me the following day. That is the place the maharaja’s nieces got here to board, a fairytale fort inbuilt 1868 by an prosperous cotton service provider from Manchester, after honeymooning together with his spouse within the space.

My automotive journey by way of peat lavatory, the 12 Pins mountain vary, and glassy lakes to Kylemore, a granite mansion rising from the bottom of Druchruach Mountain with Lough Pollacappul aproning out earlier than it, is mesmeric. The home’s gothic façade mirrored on the trying glass lake would have been very acquainted to Ranji and his entourage. Kylemore grew to become an abbey and internationally famend boarding and day faculty after Benedictine nuns, who had fled Belgium in WWI’s Battle of Ypres, moved in. Ranji wished his nieces to be handled the identical as different college students there, and by Tim’s account, that they had no drawback becoming in with the likes of farmers’ daughters. Ranji, he tells me, had a superb rapport with the sisters, who he’d gotten to know on jaunts throughout to Kylemore to take his nieces for spins across the countryside. When he despatched a lorry to gather his nieces and their mates for one among his birthday events, it got here again full.

From misty fly fishing classes (backside) to the bucolic setting of the fishing lodge (prime), these parts work to make the property ‘essentially the most stunning place of all,’ because the Maharaja termed it. Photograph courtesy: Ballynahinch Fortress Resort

Later within the night, again at Ballynahinch, Ranji’s birthday is once more a topic of dialog. “Do you know it’s Ranji’s birthday in a couple of days?” asks the barman. “I wish to do one thing particular for it,” he tells me. “I feel I’ll placed on a particular cocktail, one thing Indian.” Fishing mementos take up plenty of the out there area on this bar— glass instances maintain taxidermied salmon, and the partitions have rods and images of anglers with their large catch. The fishing theme places me within the temper for ordering Dooncastle oysters, a superb determination, and turbot. I wash it down with the regionally brewed Bridewell Ale. As I’m having fun with my crème brûlée and a dessert wine from Dublin, of all locations, the supervisor stops by my desk to test on the whole lot.

The dialog swings to Ranji as he tells me concerning the Maharaja’s behavior of leaving that 12 months’s Rolls Royce with the Parish Priest, who would in flip promote it on and share the cash in the neighborhood. The tales about Bentleys nonetheless buried within the forest are a bit far-fetched, he admits. Not more than native lore a few close by mound buying its form when Ranji buried his elephant. I’m reminded of my dialog with Des, once we’d stationed ourselves on the terrace overlooking Ballynahinch River, inside simple eyeshot of a tiny island. “There’s a narrative that he had an elephant and two bears, that’s referred to as Bear Island, and there have been alleged to be two bears in cages,” Des had mentioned. The following day, when the taxi pulls as much as take me the quick distance again to Galway, my hometown, I consider Ranji packing his teaset, wishing he may keep just a little longer.


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Ballynahinch Fortress Resort presents seven courses of lodging, with rooms beginning at ₹23,600. For particular presents and different particulars, go to


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